Perfumery is
undoubtedly the area of luxury most open to all. Know, for
example, that today sells 152,000 bottles of perfume per day in many
different individual countries of the world, almost two bottles every
second. A veritable assembly of chemistry and creativity, this sector
of activity has fascinated since the dawn of time. It is also
estimated that the global perfume market will reach $ 15.6 billion in
2019. Developing and emerging countries are increasingly turning to
perfume, which is a major contributor to market growth. But where
does this fascination for smells come from? Focus on the history of
perfume.
Antiquity
The first
traces of the use of perfumery date back to antiquity. Nevertheless,
the latter was rather reserved for the worship of the gods. Similarly
raw materials were used raw, directly in the form of flowers, herbs
or resins. The rites consisted in burning aromatic essences in honor
of the deities. Egyptians and Greeks believed that perfume served to
exalt their beauty and power. Moreover, the very word "perfume"
comes from the Latin "per fumum" which literally means "by
smoke". However, it is to Queen Cleopatra that we owe the
initiation of perfumery as an element associated with feminine
beauty. Indeed, the latter particularly liked to plunge into scented
baths.
Middle
Ages
The first
part of the Middle Ages is marked by a sharp decline in perfumery.
Indeed, the barbarian invasions led to the fall of the Roman Empire
and limited the use of aromatic plants. However, the reopening of the
Roman trade routes from the twelfth century allowed to rediscover
many fragrances. What is more, it was at this time the Chinese, the
Arabs and the European alchemists discovered the ethyl alcohol and
the distillation system. Finally, Marco Polo's travels and the
development of the spice trade paved the way for new flavors.
Renaissance
The
renaissance is a time very marked by perfumery. Indeed, the nobles
had more and more recourse to perfumes to mask the body odors.
Indeed, the toilet was not then daily and it was necessary to cover
with strong and heady perfumes to mask the bad smells. Amber, musk,
jasmine or tuberose were mainly used. Similarly, many explorations
such as Christopher Columbus, Magellan or Vasco de Gama allowed to
bring back new raw materials such as cocoa, vanilla, tobacco, pepper
or cardamom. Finally, it was also at this time that perfumers began
to settle in Paris and that the French nobility accedoirisaisa
scented gloves,
Classic
period
Louis XIV
was nicknamed "the most flourishing king in the world".
Indeed, the use of perfumes was ubiquitous within the court of
Versailles. Moreover, it is said that the Sun King even perfumed the
fountains of the gardens of the castle. The strong demand for species
of the monarchy then led France to develop its own production. Given
the favorable climate of the south of France, the plantations of raw
materials were installed in the region of Grasse. Since that day,
this place is considered to be the capital of perfumery. It
cultivates fragrant raw materials and makes the most beautiful
perfumes. Louis XV, meanwhile, continued to glorify the image of
perfumery and even ordered the wearing of a different fragrance every
day in the courtyard.
The
nineteenth century
The
nineteenth century marked a further decline in perfumery. Indeed, the
latter was associated with the court and was therefore particularly
frowned upon during the revolution. It was not until the Consulate to
see her return to the front of the stage thanks to the Empress
Josephine and Napoleon, lovers of exotic scents and Eau de Cologne.
Gradually, perfumery began to industrialize and was increasingly
perceived as an art in its own right. Likewise, it was at this moment
that the first synthetic molecules appeared. The vaporizer,
meanwhile, was invented in 1870 by the writer Brillat Savarin. Other
large companies such as Guerlain and Pivier also took advantage of
this expansion to develop mass production of flasks.
1900 -
1950
The Belle
Epoque placed the perfume as a real luxury product. Similarly, René
Lalique signed the creation of flasks similar to real sculptures.
Coco Chanel, meanwhile, revolutionized the image of women in the 20s
and emancipa. The iconic Chanel N ° 5 made its appearance in 1921.
Guerlain then responded by creating the mythical Shalimar. The war,
however, dropped sales of perfumes before they found their mark of
nobility at the Liberation. Christian Dior then launched his first
essence in 1947, named Miss Dior while Nina Ricci followed with the
creation of the Air du Temps in 1948.
1950 -
2000
The 1950s
marked the beginning of the democratization of perfumes. These become
a more accessible luxury. The hippie current makes patchouli its
leader. In the same way, the fresh waters such as the legendary Habit
Rouge of Guerlain or Eau Sauvage of Dior make their appearance. Men,
for their part, are gradually abandoning the Eau de Cologne in favor
of perfumes themselves. The 80s then show the return of the most
heady perfumes. Virility is omnipresent and power is needed. It was
not until the 90s to see a return to more sweetness and purity. The
time is then to tenderness and nature. Similarly, it is at this
moment that gourmet perfumes make their appearance, especially with
the creation of Thierry Mugler's Angel in 1992.
2000 to
the present day
Modern
perfumery is marked by several simultaneous trends. Some look for
more sensuality while others turn to authenticity and emotion
instead. The retro chic spirit is more than ever appreciated.
Perfumery is also less compartmentalized and men's perfumes allow
more tenderness while women dare more impertinence. In the same way,
the mixed fragrances multiply and the niche perfumes are more and
more trend.
Although
globalization helps spread the image of perfumery all over the
planet, some civilizations still escape this phenomenon today. In
Oceania, for example, They still rub the body and hair with plants.
In the same way, floral offerings to deities are still practiced in
Asia. Anyway, perfumery still seems to have a bright future, and the
many technical advances already promise to subjugate our sense of
smell in the years to come.
